Camino de Santiago

There are multiple routes for the Camino, and I picked the traditional route called Camino Francés, which starts at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France. This route would require over 30 days, which I do not think Frances, better half,  will allow me to do, nor could I survive to be away for that long. I decided to start my walk at Ponferrada, which allowed me to walk for nine days and around 215 kilometers; the minimum distance to receive a Credencial is 100 kilometers. The route from Ponferrada will take me through Villafranca del Bierzo, Las Herrieras (Instead of the traditional O Cebreiro - because there were no ideal accommodations in this town when I searched - two pilgrims found out that the Albergue they wanted to stay in was closed at O Cebreiro when we stopped there), Triacastela, Sarria (this is the minimum starting point to receive a Credencial, 100 kilometers), Portomarín, Palas de Rei (I would probably stop one evening at Melide if I were to do this again, after Palas de Rei; the distance between the towns and Arzúa is the longest hike starting from Sarria,) Arzúa, O Pedrouzo, then, finally to Santiago de Compostela.

Contemplating this 14-day trip, you will need a lot of things to bring to make the journey comfortable. I learned during the walk that there are services that will transport your luggage between hotels but decide against that.

I settled on a smaller bag, the Tumi Alpha Bravo Search, to cram all my clothes and other stuff I would need along the way. I walked during the early spring, meaning it was still a little cold, and I needed warm apparel. These were the items that ended up in my backpack:

·  12 shirts - 3 quick dry shirts

·  1 Extra Pair of Jeans

·  3 Thermal Undershirts

·  2 Thermal Pants

·  5 Pairs of Thermal Socks

·  3 Pairs of Toe Socks

·  3 Packing Cubes to stuff all of my compressible clothes

·  Tube HikeGo Blister Prevention Cream

·  Rain Ponchos

·  Tide  Sink Packs Laundry Detergent - I should have brought more of these and eliminated clothes

·  Walking sticks Amazon delivered to my hotel in Madrid

·  Dr. Frederick's Original Gel Toe Tubes

·  12 underwear

·  Molle Accessories

·  Sleep Mask

·  Loop Earplugs

·  Flashlight

·  Moleskin Pads Adhesive Blister coverlets

·  Digital Camera - not needed

·  Camera Clip

·  iPad Pro

·  iPhone

·  Sunglasses - never used

·  Foldable hat

·  Comfortable, waterproof hiking shoes - I used the Keen Low Height Targhee 2 that was half a size larger to accommodate the layers you'll have on your feet

·  Dr. Scholl's gel padding - I used the stiffer version, as there is already enough give on the shoes, and you want to prevent friction on your feet

·  Thermal blanket in case I end up walking late in the evening

·  Other essentials

The main form of conveyance was a significant concern for this trip, and I wanted to avoid blisters or injuring myself while walking. A few websites talk about blister prevention and caring for them. Outdoor Magazine and (darntough.com) online articles gave me pointers on how to do so.

In summary, I learned from the website to apply  HikeGo blister prevention cream on my toes/feet, wipe excess off, put on toe socks, and then layer it with thermal socks (or a second layer of moister-wicking socks). I also had Dr. Scholl's gel pads in my shoes as an additional cushion layer in my waterproof shoes that are half a size bigger than what I usually wear - the idea is to minimize friction, pressure, moisture, and heat between toes, feet, and shoes. I did not develop any blisters in the 11-12 total days of walking by following the above-plus care during the hike and the aftercare post-hike. I did not include care for blisters because I did not experience any.

I also ordered a pair of walking sticks to use during the hike. I initially thought I would not use them, but I learned how much these helped me survive. The sticks have also proved to be very helpful in preventing any injuries, as I've tripped a few times and, because I did not have my total weight on one leg, came out not injuring my lower extremities.

When I arrived in Madrid, I walked for about 9.27 kilometers (5.76 miles) to test my ability to walk these distances and felt pain in the soles of my feet; I attribute this to not being used to walking or running - I realized how low-bearing cycling is after this walk and how tough the next few days may become, realizing that I had the energy and endurance but not used to walking. My lower extremities were not as conditioned as I thought. When speaking with Frances that evening, I questioned my ability to walk that many kilometers (miles) on the Camino, but I was already in Spain.

Madrid is a lovely city to visit. I've visited it a few times and enjoyed much of what it offers. The last time I was there was on Frances's birthday in January of this year (2024); we stayed at Gran Círculo on the Gran Via, which is close to everything you may want to see in Madrid. I picked the cheapest hotel this time of booking and on Gran Via, the Aloft. I previously stayed at Santo Mauro, a few years back. This hotel was a former duke's residence.

The restaurants and food make me want to return to the city more than anything else. One of the restaurants we have gone to was Resturante el Botín, documented as the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. We ordered the suckling pig, watermelon con jamón, and grilled artichokes. The food was good, and the experience of having eaten at the world's oldest restaurant was well worth it. The other restaurants we visited were Roostiq, Casa Salvador, and a few not-so-memorable restaurants with delicious food. Still, we took home new favorites: Torreznos, Callos, and Spanish Tortillas - I tried cooking all three the weeks after getting home and enjoyed them. At Roostiq, we enjoyed the torreznos, steak, roasted chicken, roasted peppers, and risotto. The drinks at Roostiq were impressive; we tried the house Manhattan, Pisco Sour, and the Gin Tonic. The one restaurant I wanted to return to with Frances, and ended up going to twice, this trip was Ten Con Ten, in the Salamanca area. Their risotto is phenomenal, and expert bartenders professionally mix the Gin Tonics.

While in the city, during my visit with Frances, we visited some of the must-go places like the Prado and Parque de Retiro, among other places, but one of the memorable experiences was watching Flamenco at Corral de la Morería. The dancers were engaging and expressed so much emotion, sadness, and loss; one of the hotel valets from the hotel told us Flamingco is their city's passion and was well worth watching the show. The restaurant is also a known Michelin-starred restaurant, but we wanted to experience Restaurante Botín over this restaurant.

After two days in Madrid, I took the train to Ponferrada using Renfe Avía, leaving from Madrid-Chamartín-Clara-Campoamor; this was convenient and easy. I purchased the ticket online for €86.40 and used their app to get additional information about the trip.

Ponferrada to Villafranca Del Bierzo

22.92 kilometers (14.24 miles), 5 hours and 58 minutes

It is a small town with something going for it: a Marriott property, The AC Hotel Ponferrada! I arrived with trepidation, fear, and anxiety, knowing I struggled to walk 6 miles in Madrid and was still sore. I walked to the plaza mayor, recommended by the hotel front desk; every town or city has one where locals and tourists can have dinner or shop. I headed out around 7 pm; no restaurant was open to serve dinner yet, and the typical start of dinner service in Spain was around 8 pm. I walked around until I found a bar serving drinks. I waited for dinner service at Restaurante 7 Sillas. I had a few beers; Estrella is the Galician brand, and I ordered the Egg Omelet with Shaved Jamón with truffle oil when they were ready. This dish was super rich, and my brain went wild at how good it was. I couldn't finish it because of how rich the dish was.

The day after, I walked to Albergue de San Nicolas to get my Credencial Del Peregrino - it was a coincidence that I went to the same namesake grade school and high school. I learned about this place from Guy Joaquin and Laurie Ferris, Coordinators for the Northern California Chapter of the American Pilgrims (NorCal@americanpilgrims.org). American Pilgrims on the Camino (americanpilgrims.org), There may be a chapter close to where you live. The organization could not process one for me at the time of request because of the proximity of my travel date; they had to mail the (Credencial Del Peregrino)Pilgrim's passport. The passport was €3 to obtain at the Albergue. This (credential) passport was also the first time I realized what a peregrino was, a pilgrim walking the way of Saint James, duh!

Interestingly, when I arrived at the location, the Albergue was closed. Thankfully, a delivery guy was around, and I asked him, in Spanish, if this place was open. He shared that there should be people in there and proceeded to knock loudly on the door. Two workers acknowledged the knocking, opened the front door, and sold me the Credencial.

Interestingly, not many people speak English in these smaller towns, and the locals almost always expect people to be fluent in Spanish or expect you to speak the language. It only takes a few minutes for them to realize that I am not fluent in the language but can enunciate the accent correctly. This ability was beneficial, and I almost always felt welcomed wherever I went.

The walk to Villafranca del Bierzo was long and arduous. After an hour of walking, it started raining, and I pulled one of my one-time-use rain ponchos out of the bag. I had difficulty putting it on and asked a local to help me pull the rest of the poncho over my backpack; he sent me off by saying, "Buen Camino," which you will hear many times during the Camino. I saw another Peregrino walking before me, caught up with him, and we briefly spoke. He was from Sweden and was also walking to Santiago de Compostela. I passed him along the way and never saw him again. This time of year, early spring, few peregrinos are on the Camino. According to websites, the peak season is around May, June, July, and August. It's also worth noting that many hotels and Albergues are not open during the off-season.

I stopped at Camponaraya at a local restaurant, Mesón el Reloj, where I ordered a plate of Calamares. I initially just wanted to order their special, clearly advertised for €10.50, but one of the servers said that it was unavailable on Saturdays and that I had to order a whole dish, which I obliged. This restaurant was the only place I received a little animosity as he explained to his colleagues that tourists should pay a minimum of €20. The girl serving me just listened as she probably knew I understood him. I couldn't finish the dish and sent it back. Nonetheless, the whole meal was only €13 with a beer.

I continued my walk with trepidation as my lower extremities were already sore, and I had another 12.8 kilometers to go. The rain continued, and the path led me to the side of freeways, but the path was well protected with barriers. The rain kept coming down during most of my walk. The closer I was to Villafranca, the more pain I was experiencing, and coming downhill towards the town and hotel was so painful, and I felt like I was going to topple over if I was not careful.

As I walked towards my hotel, I walked by a man with his two teenage kids, asking a local in English if there was a pathway through the road we were walking on. She said there was and told us we could pass in Spanish; we chatted a little bit, and she asked where I was staying and said Las Doñas. She explained to the other American traveler that where I was staying was a nice, higher-end hotel. The other traveler scoffed at her and said he didn't have a choice, uncalled for, but he was probably as tired as I was. He probably used one of the places I used to research the walk.

Walking into Las Doñas del Portazgo was a godsend; the place smelled fresh and good, making you relax immediately. The lady asked if I had luggage waiting for me, and I said no. When she mentioned this, it was the first time I realized what they meant about having your luggage transported, which I've read about on the websites, and that it should be an option in the future, and I opted not to use the service on this trip. Carrying 24 pounds worth of stuff takes a toll on your back. The front desk clerk shared that my room was on the third floor (the fourth floor as the ground floor is the first floor); she smiled and said there was an elevator. She probably saw my horrified face as I was ready to tip over from exhaustion. I arrived in my room soaking wet, needing a shower and rest.

I showered, cleaned my feet, dried them well, and put them up. Whew, no blisters on day one! I spoke with Frances and told her I might not make it hereafter because I was exhausted. I thought of taking a taxi to my next destination. There are taxi signs in many places, but I have never taken one, which may cost a lot if you take one—nonetheless, it is an option if needed.

After a few hours of rest, I became hungry and started to look for food. I still could barely walk, and this place was hilly with stairs leading to their plaza mayor when I began to go out to find food. I checked into multiple places, and none were open because it was not 8 pm. I ended up at Restaurante Sevilla. I had a Spanish Tortilla and a Racciones with beef cheeks, and the food wasn't to my liking, but I was starving. I struck up a conversation with the bartender, who was originally from the Dominican Republic. He was curious about why and how I learned to speak Spanish and how I was finding my way around without what he called a tracker (GPS); you don't need one as there are signs at all the intersections, and I don't know how one would get lost. We exchanged pleasantries and shared how I learned the language. He shared that he's been in Spain for a few years and wants to move to Palas de Rei because there are more Dominicans there.

I went back to the hotel with sore legs and thighs, thinking I would not make it to walk the next day. I took 2 200mg of Ibuprofens and elevated them to decrease the swelling in my feet.

Villafranca Del Bierzo to Las Herrieras (O Cebriero)

19.95 kilometers (12.4 miles) 5 hours and 15 minutes

After yesterday's walk, I felt I couldn't continue and asked myself why I was doing this.

I told Frances I would check if I could get through this morning. When I awoke this morning, however, I felt good, with most of the aches gone, and I was relieved. I have decided to walk to Las Herieras and stay there for the night. The next leg seems further at over 28 kilometers (18 miles), mainly in the mountains, and I may skip that if I can find a taxi to take me to Triacastela.

Shiarron and Ray texted me last night and could not answer because I was just in so much pain that I did not have anything to say.

My brother called me because he was worried about our mother. I spoke to her the other day, and she seemed okay. A few minutes later, I talked to my brother, who was calmer then. When I get back, I will have to see her right away…

My left biceps femoris seems to be the only muscle hurting today; it is a bigger muscle, and I can feel it.

The hike on this day was a little under 20 kilometers, and I was confident I could finish it to Las Herrieras - with some anxiety. I planned to take a taxi or the bus later in the day if needed.

I planned on walking to O Cebriero from Las Herrieras and thought of taking a taxi or bus the rest of the way to Triacastela. I found out the bus fare was only €2.60 from O Cebriero to Triacastela and paid for it online at Monbus as a contingency plan if I can't make the long walk.

I stopped at a hotel and rest stop, Hotel Valcarce, and had a really nice lunch with pork loin, fries, and an Estrella for €15.

This walk to Las Herrieras was similar to the last one, with the path coinciding with the freeway. It was drizzling initially and rained hard as I got closer to Las Hereiras. I now realize there was no leak on my poncho, but my sweat was soaking through layers of clothing. Many hotels have heated radiators that I use to hang my clothes after waking up or washing them.

I had an excellent experience at La Pandela, where the hotel was nicely appointed, and I had a very nice dinner. The owner was very attentive, and we had a delicious dinner. Again, I came early for dinner compared to the other patrons.

I took another set of Motril and now had a routine of washing, cleaning, and drying my feet as my post-hike aftercare routine. In subsequent days, I also cleaned and washed my shoes and trimmed toenails when I felt they were putting pressure on my boots.

Las Herrieras to O Cebriero (Triacastela)

34.05 kilometers (21.16 miles) 5 hours 44 minutes

I am looking forward to a good journey today at the Camino.

This morning, as with the other two days, I spent time applying the HikeGo antiblister cream, toe socks, and another layer of socks as my pre-hike routine. I also habitually cleaned the insides of my shoes to remove the pebbles and dirt that had gotten in my shoes as I walked.

I noticed how quiet it is to sleep in these towns; I have read about significant parties along the route, but I didn't witness any, probably because it was not high season for the Camino. I have started using earplugs at home to sleep better, but I did not need them in these places. I'm unsure about the rest of the places I'm staying, but these hotels are super quiet.

However, I could not sleep well last night, maybe because I drank coffee earlier that day, a slow caffeine metabolizer. I won't drink it today, but I will see the result, considering I plan to walk for only 2 hours today and have made arrangements to take the bus.

This day was a little harder than I thought, and it took me 3+ hours versus my initial estimate, with a little bit of ascent to O Cebreiro and the cold weather. Two sets of peregrinos passed me up this mountain, and I felt a little deflated as I could not keep up. The day before, it rained where I walked and snowed on this mountain. Unfortunately, I lacked layers to feel warm enough to continue walking if I had the energy and courage. After 3 hours of walking, my fate was sealed; the bus should drive by around 15:22. I had another big question mark while walking up the mountain, feeling the pain in my lower extremities and cold: why was I doing this again?

I took a little time and ordered lunch at Venta Celta; I had a hamburguesa and a bottle of Estrella. I asked where the bus stop was, and the barkeep showed me where to go. I hung around a little bit and enjoyed lunch. This restaurant is where I met 2; I thought German peregrinos who were befuddled that their albergue was closed and seemed like they did not speak Spanish. Unfortunately, I wasn't very helpful to them. I went down the hill to the bus stop, where the barkeep pointed me.

While waiting for the bus, I stood beside a tree and building, an albergue, to shield myself from the wind. An older woman hailed me and asked if I was waiting for the bus - in Spanish. I said yes, and she immediately said to go to the street or the driver would not see me. Sure enough, a few minutes later, the bus drove past me, and it was good that a guy in a car waved at the bus driver; the bus driver stopped, and I hoped on board; whew… people always seem to be ready to help most of the time, and lucky that the old lady saw me, and the guy in the van waived the driver or else it would have been an expensive taxi ride (can't confirm how expensive) or a frigid and late night walk.

I arrived in Triacastela after a 20-minute bus ride and walked into Casa David, where the owner of the pension house warmly greeted me. This place was a nice pension house and was the only one I could find that was decent in the area based on booking.com reviews. Originally from Denmark, Johan moved here after retiring from his previous job as a truck mechanic. I told him he has a very nice life here.

I went to dinner at Xacobeo, as the other restaurant I had picked on Apple Maps was closed, and one bar, to be honest, was a little creepy with a bunch of older patrons who were drinking - if you've seen the movie "old people," that's what I reminded me of. I had Callos and pork ribs with fries for €14. It was pretty good in the end. I caught up with two kids who walked past me earlier, climbing up O Cebreiro.

I was feeling my body out this evening for aches and pains. My right calf, calcaneal tendon, and left biceps femoris was sore. My back, right trapezius, and right rhomboid muscles were sore yesterday, but I feel better this morning. My left ankle, specifically the tibialis posterior, also hurts a little when walking, but it comes and goes, and I only feel it for a millisecond.

I found a local pharmacy and purchased 400mg of ibuprofen and dental floss.

Tricastela to Sarria

19.57 kilometers (12.16 miles) 5 hours 23 minutes

I feel pretty good this morning. I ate a little breakfast prepared by the pension owners and went my way.

I haven't talked much about the credencial outside of the first day, but getting two stamps along the way is a requirement starting in Sarria. The credencial also states this in the pages; the booklet should have enough for over 30 days.

Walking the Camino, I found it incredible how much clear water there was around this place and wondered if a dam prevented it from washing them into the ocean. I remember Spain experiencing one of the worst droughts a few years ago.

While walking through cow pastures and Slaughterhouses, I was interested in how cow dung smells sweeter (still pungent) compared to the rank smell we experience when driving through California's Central Valley. This distinction must be from the types of food they eat in Spain vs. what they get in the US. I also observed eating beef in Europe (or other countries, e.g., Argentina, Mexico, Canada, Philippines, Singapore, etc.) vs. the US, where meat odor sticks to your clothes.

While Walking, I thought about sections of the documentation I was thinking of developing.

One would be "Foot Care" and items i purchased to prevent a care for potential issues:

·  Items purchased at Amazon

·  Ointments

·  etc.

Walking

·  Have your ankle work for you

·  walking sticks

After each of these walks, I always want to say, I will skip tomorrow. Today, I arrived a little earlier and ate a late lunch at a Turkish restaurant, and I do not think I will eat dinner.

Getting close to Sarria, I am noticing more and more peregrinos on the Camino. I got to my hotel, Hotel Novoa, and had dinner at A Travesía Dos Soños. I should have taken pictures of my food as I do not fully recall what I ate that evening - I believe I had soup and steak. I remember eating kebab wrap for lunch at a Turkish restaurant.

Sarria to Portomarin

22.93 kilometers (14.25 miles), 7 hours and 5 minutes

Sarria is the starting point for the shortest route to Santiago de Compostela to get a (credencial) certification that you've completed the Camino. When starting in this city, you hit around 100 kilometers in total distance.

It took me longer than usual to get to Portomarín, the slowest I had walked in the last five days.

The walk's first few miles had more hills than I thought it would have. I also made the mistake of not eating lunch again, resulting in my weakening over time. I did stop at a few rest stops and purchased water and Oreos. I saw and spoke with a few pilgrims along the way, a pair from Taiwan, whom I overspoke and shared that their bags were too big - I should have made suggestions or comments to myself as she did not appreciate that along with the pilgrims who were around, another set of Pilgrim's from Scandinavia. I caught up with them again, wading through deep mud. I found an alternate route above the mud and called it to their attention.

Portomarin was a bit more expensive than the other places I have been to, including Sarria. I ate a late lunch at Supenedo, a good ham and egg with fries lunch, before heading to the Porto Santiago Boutique & Rooms hotel. A friendly lady asked me many questions, and I said I needed to "descanso." She smiled and led me to my room, where I repeated my end-of-day routine.

I needed to wash my clothes as I had discarded some of my shirts, other garments, and items over the last few days and kept the nicer and quick-dry shirts, leaving me with five in total. I should have brought more detergent and washed my clothes rather than having more shirts, which would have lightened my initial load. Most hotels will have radiator heaters or towel warmers that I have used to dry my clothes.

In Portomarin, I had lunch at Supenedo and dinner at Casa Cruz - pulpo for dinner. The pulpo over dinner was okay, but it was more expensive than what I am used to; I believe I paid €20. It was dark when I returned to my hotel around 8:15 pm, and I thought I better get to bed after a second shower.

Portomarin to Palas de Rei

26.49 kilometers (16.46 miles), 7 hours and 55 minutes

The walk to Arzua started around 8:15 in the morning, and I faced two signs taking me in two different directions; I picked the normal route until I realized I was longer than the complementary route. I went back and redirected myself to the complementary route.

I again powered through the walk and did not have lunch until around 3 pm that day; tired and hungry, I found a restaurant near Palas de Rei, Meson A Brea, and had a decent lunch, consisting of Calamares and eggs with mushrooms and ham. Like the other walks, I was about an hour away and wanted to call it off. My legs and feet were hurting this time. I got to Hotel Trina 20, completed my end-of-day routine, and thought of jumping on a bus the next day and cutting through Melide. The walk from Arzua to Melide would be over 32 kilometers (20 miles). I decided to purchase a bus ticket to Melide for €1.55 online and will start my walk in Melide. If I ever walk the Camino again, 

I would most likely stop in Melide and add a night if I start in Sarria.

One of the aspects of the Camino was to walk and visit the town in the evening; I never had the chance to do this because I powered through (an overstatement, maybe more survived) each walk and should have done more sightseeing in many of these towns.

(Palas de Rei) Melide to Arzúa

30.72 kilometers (19.09 miles) 6 hours 17 minutes

The day after, I looked for the bus stop, saw a few other peregrinos, and spoke with a gentleman who looked perturbed that I asked him where the bus stop was and that I would catch the bus to Melide. I also met a guy who said he had been walking for 50 days and had started in his hometown, Sevilla; he shared that Camino was breaking him. I felt terrible that I did not want to hang out or speak with him as he was unkept and was smoking. He tried to befriend me in a way, but I was wary of him. I boarded the bus, put my bag in the luggage compartment, and waited for him to close it before jumping on board. I cut my trip by half by doing this and saving 15 kilometers (9.5 miles) and a total time of around 4 hours. I jumped off the bus earlier in Melide and entered an organic coffee place to escape the guy. I enjoyed an organic coffee and went into a Churrería with cocoa milk, killing about an hour to ensure I wouldn't come across the guy I met earlier. There are certain moments in many of these trips where one needs to be a little careful and always be wary of strangers who may make you feel off.

I would probably make Melide a stop and a night to sleep the next time I do this walk.

I walked towards Arzúa after 30 minutes and never saw the guy again until he caught up with me in O Pino, near O Pedrouzo, where I saw him tagging along with another Peregrino. The gentleman who showed me the bus stopped earlier caught up with me at one of the small restaurants where I had a Coke and Ensïemada; we talked a little bit, and he shared that he had walked the Camino for 13 years straight a few years back and will try to restart the annual tradition. He asked where I started and said Ponferrada, where he nodded to my relief; he shared he only started in Sarria. I guess I was looking for some affirmation and felt relieved after speaking with him when he showed approval because of where I started.

I arrived in Arzúa early from my 15-minute bus ride and checked into my hotel, 1930 Boutique Hotel. This hotel was the best I've stayed at outside Madrid and had excellent amenities and service. The woman who checked me in gave me good pointers about the area's restaurants and made reservations at Casa Nené. She complimented my Spanish and thought I was Castillian. I told her no and said I only speak a little; she then switched to English, to my relief. I went out for lunch around 4:30 pm at La Bodega de Jose.

Casa Nené was a very good restaurant for dinner, and I ordered the scallops and croquet with some white wine. This dinner was probably one of my most expensive meals along the Camino at €39.

Arzúa to O Pedrouzo

21.11 kilometers (13.12 miles) 5 hours 39 minutes

After a very nice breakfast at 1930 Boutique Hotel, I started my walk to O Pedrouzo; by now, my body has been acclimated to the stress it is experiencing, although my Garmin watch tells me I am straining.

This section of the Camino would be a shorter walk, and I thought I should have gone further into Santiago de Compostela and would have had a good chance to catch the noon Peregrino mass.

I was reflecting on my walk over the last few days. I had plans to listen to a few podcasts and audiobooks about business and other things I wanted to catch up on. I also expected a call or two from folks at work, but none happened. I had my AirPods in my pocket as I walked but never used them. I just enjoyed the quiet and solitary click-clack of my walking sticks and steps. I went through my emotions, good and bad, happy and sad, and I somehow mellowed out every emotion I felt and thought. It might have been because I was tired, they did not mean anything, or they were not as important as family and friends. The solace and alone time did not show me what to do, nor did it give me any epiphany; it just gave me a sense of accomplishment that this walk was almost complete and whatever was in the past is now in the past. The historical reason for people coming and completing the Camino is to be forgiven of their past sins. The new reasons are job transitions, loss, sickness, and part of a retirement bucket list. My reasons are probably more profound than what I initially intended and more than what I share in this document. Still, I have carried some of my family and friends' intentions on this trip, and I hope they were all answered.

As I walked to O Pedrouzo, I ended up walking with a father and son from Mallorca. Danny and José spoke with me until José chatted with someone they had encountered the day before. I wanted to arrive at O Pedrouzo early, so I walked, leaving the pair behind; I wanted to have a late lunch, skip dinner, and rest.

I arrived in O Pino and took a picture of the town's sign, "O Pino, No Camiño de Santiago," which was odd come to learn that it is just an accent that they have in Galicia, based on what a waitress shared with me at dinner in Santiago de Compostela.

A young gentleman from South Korea caught up with me. He said they started in Saint-John-Pied-de-Port over 24 days ago; he shared that his name was pretty simple: Yu. He shared he had a gap in between jobs and took the opportunity. His girlfriend caught up with us, and we parted ways.

I found a local restaurant and ordered another hamburguesa at around 1:45 pm and another sandwich to go - in case I got hungry that night, as I know my hotel is far from the main street. After lunch, I stopped by a local shop to purchase drinks and additional snacks to ensure I did not have to go out that night. The group of Koreans, Yu, and his friends, caught up with me at the store to use the restroom. I didn't interact with them much as I was ready to be at my hotel, and I waved them goodbye as I left.

I arrived at Hotel Amiuka, a modern building made entirely of wood. Very nicely appointed, and did I say modern? A lady the day prior texted me through WhatsApp regarding how to enter the building and room. I went in, finished my routine, washed clothes and shoes, spoke with Frances, and called it a day.

O Pedrouzo to Santiago De Compostela

20.37 kilometers (12.66 miles) to 5 hours 22 minutes

Thinking about catching the noon pilgrim's mass, I tried to cut through the highway. I don't recommend it, as the lady who prepared my breakfast at Hotel Amuika shared that there would be too many cars on the road and sometimes had to cross a bustling highway; she was right. I finally caught the Camino further out and had to climb up a road barrier to get back onto the Camino path. I did not save enough time to attend the Pilgrim's mass and had to go through a dangerous patch of road.

The last leg of the Camino, with more and more people on the trail. I ran into Danny and José, where they had snacks at the same place I ended up in. We exchanged niceties, and as I sat, Danny said they would proceed as I rested and enjoyed a cake and Coke. While this walk was with more and more people, the nostalgia and quiet solace remain with you even when you see other people on the Camino.

I walked east of Santiago de Compostela's airport and came across a street vendor who was selling Camino de Santiago trinkets and offering to stamp my credencial; I saw a few of these stalls along the way and imagine there will be more of these stalls during the peak season. I waived and thanked the vendor for the offer to save time. I only needed one more "sello," "estampa," or stamp to finish my credencial, which I got on the next turn.

I saw the welcoming stone monument north of the airport while watching a RyanAir airplane land after an hour and a half of walking. Santiago de Compostela seems close now, yet it is so far away. I am contemplating taking a taxi if I see one along the way. However, the Camino took a different path that was more secluded, with no cars in sight. I came across Iglesia de Santa Lucia and was excited to see my mom's namesake church. I've been thinking about her this morning and want to visit her when I return. With my legs and body getting heavier and heavier, I continued walking the Camino, knowing that my final destination was only a few kilometers away.

I found a rest stop at a restaurant where many pilgrims stopped to eat and rest at a stop where I was greeted by a friendly barkeep who ordered a few tapas, a tortilla, and two beers. I took a little breather before heading further into Santiago de Compostela. As I cross the large freeway, Autostrada Atlantico, I feel much closer to the finish line and getting increasingly exhausted from the long walk; this was over 4 hours after I started walking and another hour more to get to the Compostela. I missed the pilgrims' mass at noon by this time.

Walking into Santiago de Compostela, there were more people, and I noticed there might be a little fiesta going on with large crowds walking the streets and many attending church. As a Catholic country, I guess many people still celebrate mass here.

About an hour later, I arrived at Santiago de Compostela, looking for the office where I could get my credencial. I almost walked into a building where I thought the Pilgrim's office was until I came across a woman and asked her where the office was, and she explained where to go. I could barely understand her as she sounded very different from many of the locals I've met since the start of my Camino. I walked down the passageway, turned right, and found the Pilgrim's office at the end of the block, following the lady's directions

I ran into Danny and José again as they were registering their Camino. I completed an online registration process through my phone, had the computer read the registration off my phone, and went into the office. A QR code in your credencial will take you to a website where you can register yourself. The website will send you an email with a QR code that a computer can read at the office entrance. They will give you a number, and you will follow a line to a clerk who will assist with verifying your Camino and processing your certificate. They printed out my credencial for a few euros, purchased a canister to store the documents, and I was off. Walking out of the office, I ran into Danny and José again and chatted with them a bit and, at the spur of the moment, invited them to dinner. We shared phone numbers, and I headed to my hotel, the Palacio del Carmen, thank goodness, a Marriott property - the significance of being in a Marriott property for me as it signifies consistency and comfort that I will get almost the same service anywhere. I walked into the hotel and felt like I was back in civilization. However, I was never far from civilization and never without a cell phone service.

After completing my daily routine and a few minutes of rest, I walked back to the cathedral, trying to find out if I could enter the church. Unfortunately, it was not open until later that evening for mass, and I learned there was a pilgrim's mass at 7 pm. I visited the museum and saw historical artifacts and show pieces by the master, Maestro Mateo, who built the cathedral. Pilgrims receive a discounted rate of €4 to enter.

I returned to the square, intending to attend the Pilgrim's mass. They only allowed people attending mass to enter the church. The mass was solemn, and for the most part, I understood what the priest was saying as he was speaking Castilian versus Galician. After mass, there was an opportunity to light up a few candles, visit St. John's relic, and meditate for a few minutes.

I spent dinner at Orixe with Danny and José. Talking about life, the type of work he did (he is a firefighter, his dad had a business fixing boats/yachts, and his wife was a nurse), kids, and his dad's reason for the walk - shared he had a blood issue in his legs - I take that this was probably blood clots. I told him that he looked great and even walked faster than me. They both offered Frances and me the opportunity to visit them in Mallorca. I said yes and told them I knew cycling was big on the island and would bring my bicycle.

The next day, I returned to Madrid, taking the Renfe Alvia from Santiago De Compostela train station and arriving at Madrid-Chamartín-Clara-Campoamor. Air travel would have been cheaper, but I opted to take the train back. The fare was reasonable, at €102.10, even at the highest class service offered - an airfare was advertised at €29 and would have been quicker, I assume. This train ride was comfortable and straightforward.

Arriving in Madrid, I went directly to the Tumi shop in Salamanca to get my bag monogrammed; I couldn't find a Tumi shop at the airports on the way in. For lunch, I went to Casa Dani. I've tried to get into the primary location multiple times inside Mercado de La Paz, and I always go outside and quickly find a seat at La Terraza Casa Dani. I ordered a Tortilla and a chipolino, squid in its ink. Last time, I had torreznos, but the staple for this place is their Spanish tortillas.

Later that day, I shopped for my wife's bag at Bimba y Lola and Campo Marzio and headed to my hotel at the Hyatt Centric Gran Vía.

The trip was well worth it, and I will remember it for the rest of my life - very glad that I went and did it. Writing this was also satisfying and helped me remember the trip. I hope you enjoyed reading it.